Original
Feminized Revival: Han Chinese Dress, Gender and Cultural Nationalism in Contemporary China
Abstract
Abstract Women hold disproportionate authority in China’s contemporary Hanfu revival, where Han-ness operates through implicit cultural codes rather than explicit ethnic claims. Recent scholarship highlights how Han-ness circulates as a moral, etiquette-centred grammar of “proper culture.” Drawing on 18 months of ethnography across six sites in China, this article shows how gender mediates that grammar and shapes the performances of Han-ness. Women, as arbiters of taste and propriety, enact an assertive banal nationalism through aesthetic and organizational labour. Men, marginal within the field, perform defensive overt nationalism through didactic historical narratives and moralized claims to legitimacy. To explain this pattern of identity formation and boundary making, I advance the notion of gendered everyday nationhood. The article contributes to scholarship on nationalism by showing how embodied practices sustain national belonging, and how mundane evaluation and boundary policing reproduce nationhood in everyday life.
中文
女性化的复兴：当代中国汉族服饰、性别与文化民族主义
摘要
在当代中国汉服复兴中，女性拥有不成比例的主导权威；在此场域中，汉族性通过隐性的文化符码而非明确的族群主张运作。近期研究强调，汉族性作为一种以道德和礼仪为中心的“正当文化”语法而流通。本文基于在中国六个地点开展的18个月民族志研究，展示性别如何中介这一语法并塑造汉族性的展演。女性作为品味与礼俗的仲裁者，通过审美与组织劳动践行一种自信的、日常民族主义。男性在该场域中处于边缘，则通过说教式历史叙事和道德化的合法性主张，展演防御性的显性民族主义。为解释这一身份形成与边界划定的模式，我提出“性别化日常国族性”概念。本文对民族主义研究的贡献在于表明：具身实践如何维系民族归属，以及日常评价与边界维护如何再生产日常生活中国族性。
关键词
汉服复兴、性别、文化民族主义、日常民族主义、国族性、汉族性、民族志、当代中国